We were happy to welcome the Tates, Sarah and David, on their first visit to Turkey on May 26. That Wednesday we left for a four night trip to Egirdir and the Mediterranean with the object of attending the Fulbright Grantee's Annual Workshop. Egirdir broke the trip down into two manageable driving days and allowed us to see some historic splendors en route.
The first stop, just one hour from Ankara, was the Midas Tomb and Gordion Museum. We had visited this site before last year and it is worth repeating, especially given its proximity to our route. The tomb is the oldest known wooden structure in Turkey (and by extension, perhaps the world). The museum is small but has a nicely displayed collection of artifacts spanning quite a period of human history. The Tates, in their first taste of the jadedness of Turks to the abundance of the historical treasures of their country, were amazed that no one was there.
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| The Gordion Museum where supposedly Alexander the Great cut the Gordian knot and King Midas are buried |
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| These mosaics are the oldest in Anatolia, which makes them ancient indeed |
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| The stones' colors are all natural and not dyed |
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| Detail of this nearly 3000 year old floor artwork |
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| Randy and David admire the huge mosaic floor |
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| Phrygian pot with no cracks or large flaws |
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| The mother goddess, Cybele, was worshiped devoutly by the Phrygians |
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| The sign to the burial place of a Phrygian king, perhaps Midas himself |
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| The man made mound housing the burial chamber |
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| The entrance to the mound |
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| Within the mound |
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| The oldest wooden structure known in Anatolia, and perhaps, the world |
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| Detail of wooden burial chamber within the center of the mound |
Pushing on, we lunched with a picnic in the town park of Emirdag, a pretty backwater. Refueled thus, we headed via back roads (and very pretty ones, at that) to Egiridr. This gem is a mountain lake with forested peaks surrounding it. At the center is Yesil Ada, the Green Island, a small former Greek enclave that is joined to the town of Egirdir by a causeway. Devoted readers will remember this locale from a post early in this blog.
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| Park in downtown Emirdag |
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| Our picnic feast in the park's tea garden |
We visited the town of Barla along the way which John Ash recommends for its aged mosque. This was not spectacular but the views and temperament of the village were a treat. Next was a vantage point which overlooked the lake and town of Egirdir that our friend Gultekin Ozdemir had taken us to before. We found it again by ourselves and enjoyed the views.
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| The old mosque of Barla (there is also a new one) |
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| The venerable stone walls |
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| Minaret, admired by John Ash for its unusual green tile work (not very visible in the photo) |
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| Detail of resuse of ancient bits in the mosque wall |
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| The interior was plain with the most notable feature being this wooden ceiling |
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| While Alice checked out the mosque interior, David, Sarah and Randy took in the splendid views from this traditional village |
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| View of Lake Egirdir from the village of Barla |
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| The vantage point over Lake Egirdir from just south of town |
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| Our evening destination - a pension on Yesil Ada (the land in the center of the lake joined to the mainland by a causeway) |
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| David and Sarah like the mountains and lake |
We checked into the Merci Boutique Hotel on Yesil Ada, where he had stayed before. We had suites which were spacious but quirky. Randy and Alice's had an assortment of work out machines in the living room and bedroom. It must have been intended as either the hotel gym or for guests very intent on staying on the their training regiment. In any case, we enjoyed some wine with the lake view and the wind howling outside (it was sunny but extremely windy). We took a walk around the island (about 20 minutes) where David proclaimed his love for such windy conditions several times.
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| Quirky comfort can be found at the Merci Boutique Hotel (more of a pension really) in Yesil Ada |
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| Randy and Alice's suite was filled with exercise equipment but there was still room for some small couches for us to chill out on |
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| David enjoys a happy hour glass of red Turkish wine |
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| View southwards from the room through the screen |
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| A better look at some of the exercise equipment (along with extra beds) in the living room. The bedroom also had its own mini-gym |
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| View from the bedroom towards the mainland |
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| Another view from the bedroom window takes in the lake |
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| Alice at the small park on Yesil Ada |
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| The Tates enjoy getting windblown and compare it to their summer place in Michigan |
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| David is in his element |
Driving to Isparta that evening for dinner with our friends, the Ozdemirs rounded off the evening. We met briefly at Casa Ozdemir before heading to their favorite upscale kebab restaurant. This place styled as a caravansarai did not disappoint with amazing pilav with lamb chunks, lahmacun, soup, assorted kebabs and kunefe. We left very full and tired for the 45 minute drive back to our sanctuary on Yesil Ada.
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| The Ozdemirs at home - Gultekin, Ayse, Eda and Ayca |
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| The group together at Casa Ozdemir before dinner |
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| All together before a kebab feast |
The next day was cool and sunny and somewhat less windy. After breakfast in the sunny upper level restaurant with near 360 degree views of the lake and mountains, we headed out. Our first objective was the ancient Pisidean city of Sagalassos. Avid blog readers will remember this place from our earlier trip to Egirdir and Isparta. At that time, we viewed this wonder in near freezing conditions but deemed it one of the top attractions in Turkey. We were eager to share it with David and Sarah. The weather was near perfect for this day's foray. It was sunny but not too hot. We found the ruins easily up in the hills south of Isparta with only one or two other visitors to share the vast expanse.
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| The Tates wake up with the aid of the sunny views and bracing air from the top of the Merci Hotel |
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| Randy in the breakfast room of the Merci Hotel |
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| View back towards the town of Egirdir from the hotel restaurant |
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| David at Sagalassos |
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| View of the lower city from the parking lot area |
This time we started at the upper point and worked our way down, a better strategy. First encounters were a small fountain area and the shed housing the huge mosaic floor. To our surprise a guide was coming along with two clients and offered to open the shed for us. How fortuitous! We were able to view the mosaic floor and the stone inscriptions behind up close. The amazing theater offered us spectacular views, as before, but this time we were not exhausted and could explore it more fully. We climbed up the backside of seats to view the intact arching behind.
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| Alice at fountain near the theater in the upper city |
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| Lion detail on this fountain |
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| The library - mosaic floor and inscripted wall |
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| David and Sarah brought us luck to get in the building housing the library which eluded us during our earlier visit to Sagalassos |
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| The large and mostly intact mosaic floor |
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| Sadly, the middle part with the picture is the most damaged, presumably from earthquakes |
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| Carving on the rear wall of the library |
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| Carvings again with their attendant inscriptions |
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| Walking to the theater with views of some rock tombs (upper right) |
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| David is an arch and barrel vaulting fan (is there a club for such people?) |
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| Roman engineering - made to impress and made to last |
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| View looking back towards the upper city from the theater |
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| Within the theater, earthquakes have brought down some of the splendidly carved stone |
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| More chaos from Mother Nature |
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| Randy is ready for the curtain to go up |
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| David senses barrel vaulting and heads for the back doors (and then convinces the rest of us to follow him) |
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| View from the upper seats towards the earthquake damaged section of the theater |
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| A favorite self portrait |
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| Behind the back row of seats is a mostly intact enclosed loggia of impressive length |
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| Detail of the ceiling in this hidden area of the theater (an area worth seeking out if you visit Sagalassos) |
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| View from the theater across the city to the mountains beyond |
Lower down, the main fountain complex were as impressive as ever. Of course, the views across the mountains and plains were even better than before - this being a clear and sunny day. If the photos below seem unusually generous in number on this day, as with several others, Alice acted as David's "camera bitch" as his camera's battery was acting fickle.
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| The upper city but below the theater area |
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| Walking from the theater to the main upper city area |
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| The Heroon, with replica nymph carvings |
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| Detail of rock tombs to the side of the upper city |
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| More detail of this probably elite burial ground |
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| The impressive main arch |
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| Detail of Roman engineering |
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| Inscription on the side |
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| Part of the grand fountain complex |
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| The unbelievable fountain complex of Sagalassos |
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| Detail of still running water (statues are replicas of what was found on site) |
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| Randy found Sagalassos even better than our earlier visit, which was in freezing cold and sleet |
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| David contemplates the art and architecture of the Romans (while the city is Pisidean in origin, the ruins excavated are those of the Roman city) |
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| Detail of the water behaving much as it must have done some 2000 years before |
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| Carving detail in the ceiling of the fountain, which was dedicated to Bacchus |
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| Randy chills out like an emperor |
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| Another view of the impressive ruins of the upper city |
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| Carved architecture bits abound everywhere |
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| David and Sarah have some expertise on the designs of decorative molding and found plenty of examples during their travels in Turkey |
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| Beautiful nymph (?) carving from the lower city fountain complex |
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| The fountain of the lower city lacks the wow factor of the one in the upper city but is charming and impressive in an understated way |
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| View to the rest of the lower city from the fountain. The lower city is newer and contains some Byzantine elements |
Suitably impressed, we ate the remains of yesterday's picnic lunch in the car and headed for our second Pisidean city - Kremna. This city is much less well known than its siblings - Sagalassos, Antioch (we visited this on our earlier trip to Isparta) and Temessos (stayed tuned to this blog for our visit there) but in a way, more interesting. It is located off the beaten track (even more than the others) in an unbelievably beautiful area of mountains, lakes, forests and meadows. After asking a small boy about the location (the signs were present but confusing) we found the site. No one was there but a guard arrived by motorcycle apparently alerted by the villagers that strangers were in town and intended to the see the site. He told us cars were not allowed further and we needed to hike up. This we did. The road and then trail up were not strenuous and took us through lovely countryside. We found the city site.
It is unimproved and is just as it evolved over the past 2000 years or so. Buildings were mostly in ruins on the ground but there were some intact archways and other structural parts. Some nice carvings were located in the abundant fallen pieces. The setting was possibly even better than Sagalassos. Not only were views of mountains and plains present but also a sizable lake (which we later drove by) appeared in the setting. Having the place entirely to ourselves and with the day's weather about perfect enhanced the magical experience. Thank you, John Ash, for recommending this treasure!
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| The Pisidean city of Kremna |
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| It is a bit of a hike up from the parking area - and a deserted hike at that |
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| A big box turtle en route |
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| An elaborately carved rock signals the city cannot be far off |
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| Randy and Sarah enjoy the sunshine |
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| Views from Kremna - plains, mountains and a big lake (see upper center) |
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| The mostly intact entry gate to the city |
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| Walking to the city proper with the entry gate seen to the left |
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| An arched wall with statue pediments |
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| One of the inscribed pediments tells the tale from Roman times |
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| David was fascinated with this unspoiled site especially the inscriptions |
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| The grand staircase is still impressive despite extensive earthquake damage to most everything else |
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| A beautifully carved scallop - one of three or four in the area |
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| Sarah takes in the aura of the Pisidean era |
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| Probably a theater mask (either that or early Edvard Munch) on a stone lying on the ground |
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| Atop of Kremna was an interesting rock formation - looks like an animal with a (very literally) bushy tail. There were ruder things said by members of our party about this creature but they will wisely remain unwritten in this blog |
The guard invited us to rest with him awhile after we walked down but we had to push on for Tekirova, south of Antalya, for the Fulbright meeting. The drive took us along really beautiful back roads, making a fitting close to this day spent immersed in the wonders of both the ancient world and nature.
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| This day was one of superlatives - the weather (see picture above), the breathtaking two cities of the ancient Pisideans, and the company of the erudite but whimsical Tates |
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