On June 3 (our 34th wedding anniversary) we headed with the Tates for Cappadoccia. While we visited there twice before (once with Justin, Claudia and Simonetta and once with Sam) this time was both the different and the same. For the similarity, we stayed the first night at the best hotel in the world - the Kayakapi in Urgup - and for the second night we stayed at an old reliable - the Kelebek in Goreme. We again saw the Goreme Open Air Museum and admired the churches and formations. This time we were fortunate to have a friendly guard at the Dark Church to take advantage of the lull in the traffic to show us the most outstanding frescoes and then to lend us his personal penlight so we could the paintings better. We had new adventures this time and some repeats of awesome past experiences. We also had the misfortune to come down, one by one, with either food or water poisoning on our last day. Well - it can't all be perfect, can it?
Our first stop en route to Urgup was Aksaray, a city we had passed many times but never been able to stop. John Ash recommends the medrese (which now houses the city museum) but we did not see this attraction. Instead, we viewed the leaning minaret. Yes, you read correctly. Last year we saw the leaning tower of Pisa and this year we saw the leaning minaret of Aksaray. While not quite the attraction of its kin in Pisa, the leaning minaret leans a remarkable 27 degrees and is quite attractive. It is also nicely situated in an area with a old (Ottoman?) bridge and some Ottoman houses. Aksaray definitely deserves a look and we plan to return to take in the famed medrese.
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| The leaning minaret in Aksaray. We could not figure if it leans because of faulty foundations or faulty brickwork but we lean (ha, ha) towards the latter explanation |
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| Leaning Tower of Pisa, you have a competitor! |
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| The brickwork is quite beautiful of this nearly 1000 year old masterpiece |
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| Detail of this almost phallic mosque |
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| The nearby old (probably Ottoman or perhaps Selcuk) bridge |
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| A restored Ottoman house in Aksaray |
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| Another one, also impressive and beautiful |
From Aksaray to Urgup one passes three hans or caravansarais. The most well known of these, the Agzikarahan AKA Hoca Mesut Caravansarai , is in a village about 20 kilometers east of Aksaray. This is also worth a visit. Despite the Japanese bus load of tourists making a lightning strike (two minutes to look two minutes for pictures then back on the bus) we found it atmospheric and impressive.
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| The best of the three caravansarais between Aksaray and Nevsehir |
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| The proud entrance |
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| Inner courtyard with arches |
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| Broken exterior staircase to upper battlements |
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| Carved column detail |
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| Randy enjoys this han |
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| David records his first han |
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| The architecturally clever dual staircase (to the upper mosque) and decorative framing of the ground floor doorway |
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| More carvings over the entrance to the main stabling area |
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| Carvings inside the upper mosque |
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| Sarah and Randy from the upper mosque, a steep climb |
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| Details on doorway to stabling area |
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| Elaborate decoration on entry to stabling area - the camels must have been very discerning patrons of this han |
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| The stabling area was massive - like a huge cathedral |
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| The center contained an opening to the sky for fresh air and light |
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| Carved details under this open air dome |
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| Sarah and David muss on Selcuk architecture |
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| The entry / exit way of the stabling area looking towards the strange mosque built on the second floor |
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| arvings on the outer doorway to the han |
In Urgup our acquaintance from Bilkent, Marlene Elwell, had arranged a tour and tasting at the large Turasan Winery. We had stopped there on our previous visit to Urgup but them less than welcoming. This time Marlene had informed the owner, Hasan Turasan, that we were coming. While we did not see him, we had an able and cute (!) tour guide to give us a personal tour of the winery and then an extended tasting. The chardonnay was especially likeable and a surprise to us. We purchased a few bottles and toddled off to the Kayakapi happily.
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| We were here before with Sam but this time we got a nice tour and tasting |
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| Our guide explains how the wine is stored in underground cave rooms |
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| The private cellar of the Turasan family |
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| Some aged wines are housed in this locked room within the cellars of the Turasan winery |
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| One of the oak barrels storing the wine of the future |
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| One of several rooms filled with aging wines |
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| The fermentation room with its stainless steel vats |
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| In the tasting room, David and Sarah discuss the relative merits of the Turasan wines which include a white port |
The Kayakapi was waiting with its embracing arms. We were give the same amazing suite with private indoor pool while the Tates had the two bedroom extravaganza that Sam had previously. We all donned our white Turkish robes and met on our terrace (one of two) to share one of the bottles of Turasan chardonnay. We viewed the hills and formations of Cappadoccia and the town of Urgup below. Relaxing and magical. David called his parents via Skype to assure them we were about as far away from the strife of Istanbul's Gezi Park as could be.
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| On the Kayakapi terrace before dinner |
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| Celebrating our 34rd wedding anniversary on June 3 |
Dinner was prearranged at the Kayakapi restaurant. As the weather was a bit windy and cool, we opted for indoor dining complete with wood burning fire. We were the only ones at dinner and so had private service. Randy said this meal was his best in Turkey and it was certainly memorable capped off by a delicious anniversary cake topped with candles and a sparkler. Along with a good Turkish red wine, we were all happy and took the few steps to our suites before enjoying the lavish comfort of the Kayakapi beds.
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| The fire in the traditional wood burning fireplace at the Kayakapi restaurant |
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| Let the feast begin |
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| Sitting with a view to the fire |
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| Creamy red pepper deliciousness |
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| A riff on manti - a giant manti on a bed of yoghurt with spicy tomato sauce |
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| Being served a salad |
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| The main dish of roast lamb on cheese and eggplant (on rice for eggplant allergic David) |
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| A toast to long marriages |
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| The kitchen team (whom we had all to ourselves that evening) bring the cake |
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| Caramel, nut and chocolate deliciousness - we each had two pieces |
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| Blowing out the candles is appropriate for a wedding birthday |
The next morning brought flawless sunshine. We enjoyed breakfast on the terrace with all of the trimmings including sucuk and gozleme. Then, our vivacious hostess, Elvan, took us on a walk through the development. As with Sam, this was interesting and we saw the small mosque again. We also walked further and saw the Christian church, built into a fairy chimney. Unfortunately, it was the locked the key was not available. Reluctantly leaving this unique hotel that weaves luxury and history so well, we headed for the Goreme Open Air Museum.
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| Nothing is finer than breakfast on the terrace in Cappadoccia |
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| Fueled by coffee and sunlight we get ready for our day |
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| Roses from our terrace outside of our suite |
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| A variety of colors adorned our outdoor space |
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| More in bloom |
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| A beautiful variation |
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| A rose tree |
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| Orange ones |
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| Our outside space from the Kayakapi main road |
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| Elvan begins the tour |
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| View from the Kayakapi main road |
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| The construction manager points out the intricacies of building luxury suites in historic cave homes and storehouses |
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| The Christian church at Kayakapi |
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| The hamam which will be restored to its former glory (and probably even better) |
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| David admires the main section (the men's section) of the hamam |
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| The domed ceiling |
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| Black and white stones adorn the entry to the mosque |
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| The interesting outdoor staircase to the diminutive minaret |
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| Sarah and David take in the mosque's interior |
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| Randy also enjoyed it - small but well structured |
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| View of the Kayakapi (which means stone gate) from the road in Urgup below |
It was a bit more crowded than before but we still chose a good time to visit (at lunch time) where the crowds were relatively sparse. As mentioned above, we were lucky to get a small private tour of the Dark Church. We also bought some items at the shop there including a detailed book on the frescoes of the Dark Church for later study purchased by the Tates.
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| Sarah and David at the Goreme Open Air Museum, a collective of small chapels and monk and nun rooms |
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| They enjoyed Cappadoccia, not the least for the splendid weather |
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| Relaxation combined with intellectual and physical stimulation with a touch of hedonism occurred on this trip |
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| Inside of one of the few chapels where photographs are allowed at the Open Air Museum |
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| This chapel was apparently built during the iconoclastic period where human or animal figures were not allowed |
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| David and Sarah - no inscriptions here for them to decipher like in most of the other chapels. Between Sarah's Russian and David's smattering of Greek and Latin, they did quite well |
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| The intact alter of this unnamed chapel |
The Tates were keen to see an underground city, something we had avoided before because of time constraints and an aversion to small underground places. While Randy lounged at the Kelebek Hotel where we had side by side suites, Alice drove to the village of Mazi, Here, is an underground city rarely seen by visitors. This one is not a popular one and therefore offers an authentic experience with no crowds (in fact, no other visitors were there when we went). The organizer, Ihsan Cavdar, also does not charge and relies on tips. While Alice sat in a shady spot at a local tea shop and drank soda water (sade soda or maden suyu) amongst the men, the Tates were climbing, crawling and hoisting their way through some four or five levels of underground city. No photos exist of this adventure but their tales were thrilling but also scary. They emerged glad to be alive and in the fresh air and a bit sore from their unexpected workout. Anyone looking for an "Off the Beaten Turkey" underground city experience should check out Mazi village and ask for Ihsan.
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| This sign was a probably tip off that the underground city at Mazi was not in the mainstream of Cappadoccian tourism |
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| The underground city complex where David and Sarah disappeared for 45 minutes |
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| The village of Mazi was quaint with a capital Q |
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| Alice joins the guys at the outdoor tea spot for some sade soda and to catch up on email |
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| The other patrons were amused and intrigued by this yanbanci (foreign) women in their presence |
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| David is still stunned by his underground city experience while Ihsan writes his contact information |
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| Ihsan was a tough but playful character. If you want an authentic and personalized underground city experience in Cappadoccia head for Mazi and ask for Ihsan (but he will probably find you first) |
The exertions of the day were justification enough for wine and nuts in the rose garden outside of our rooms at the Kelebek. We then walked to dinner at a nearby restaurant, the Seten. This was tasty and we shared such dishes as bamya (okra) and stuffed zucchini flowers.
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| Randy chills on the rose garden terrace at the Kelebek Hotel in Goreme |
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| Another shot of this verdant sanctuary |
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| The useful and comfortable outdoor living area outside our adjoining suites |
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| David tests the wine - another bottle of the good Turasan chardonnay |
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| Sun is setting from the rose garden |
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| A panoramic view from the garden looking towards the town and distant hills |
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| Another panorama taking in the hotel and the rose garden |
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| Dusk over Cappadoccia |
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| The fairy chimneys and hills are even more evocative in this light |
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| Well, readers can fill in their own caption for this nighttime scene |
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| Hard to see but the lights are the neighboring town of Uchisar and its large fairy chimney lit up |
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| Dinner at the Seten Restaurant, just a few doors up from the Kelebek |
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| Meze platter - you can never go wrong with these |
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| Choban salatasi (Shepherd's salad) |
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| Manti, beans, okra with meat and stuffed zucchini flowers made up the four main dishes we shared |
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| Lighting the read made wood fire in our suite that night - what a treat |
The next morning was not what we planned however. The Tates both suffered intestinal illnesses during the night. Randy and Alice carried on with our scheduled breakfast at the farm. This was offered at no charge by the Kelebek and consisted of a tractor ride and then walk to a secluded traditional house and garden that belongs to one of the hotel's employees' grandparents. It was awesome to see the cave house and enjoy the garden area with its fruit and nut trees and chickens and ducks. Breakfast was the typical Turkish spread and we shared the experience with Kelebek guests from New Zealand, Canada, Italy and the U.S. We then hiked up from the small valley and met our tractor for the scenic short ride back to the Kelebek.
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| Another view of the outdoor living space - we all enjoyed the aged rocker which was surprisingly comfortable |
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| Our suite with fireplace |
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| We had twin beds which was not all bad as there was plenty of room |
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| Randy waits for our breakfast excursion in another perfect day of weather |
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| View from the hotel reception area |
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| Uchisar is more visible in the daylight |
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| The tractor pulled us in a large wagon to the breakfast location |
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| Fairy chimneys along the way |
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| A view of rural Cappadoccia only a few minutes outside of Goreme |
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| Steep steps had been cut into the tufa to lead down to the valley where the farm was located |
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| It looks like we are hiking in a desert but this is all tufa, the volcanic rock that makes up Cappadoccia |
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| Continuing the walk to the farm |
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| Alice was enchanted by the location and the garden |
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| Fruits on the tree |
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| The main living room of the cave house which still belongs to the family |
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| The huge kitchen with the village ladies cooking breakfast for us |
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| They were cheerful and friendly women |
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| The picture window looking out from the living room of the cave house |
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| One of the handsome chickens |
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| Bread cooks in an outdoor oven |
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| Two ducks enjoy their swimming pool |
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| Some of the structures on the farm which included a small bridge and a fairy chimney storeroom |
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| Breakfast group with one of the friendly farm dogs |
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| Cheese, bread, honey, jams, menemen (an egg and tomato dish), tomatoes, cucumber, greens and olives made up the spread along with fresh orange or lemon juice |
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| Steps and small bridge at the farm |
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| Two playful dogs |
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| The flock of chickens |
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| Inside the storeroom located in a fairy chimney |
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| Tufa cut steps to the storeroom |
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| Randy and Alice enjoyed this outing very much |
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| There was the issue of walking out of the valley which took a while and was mostly up hill |
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| View from the top of the valley near the farm |
We rejoined the ailing Tates and drove expediently to Ankara where Randy and Alice both came down with the intestinal affliction. Hardly the end we would have wished for but our memories are almost all happy ones of this excursion to magical Cappadoccia.
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| Alice thinks Cappadoccia is perhaps her favorite place to visit in Turkey |
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| The four friends and intrepid explorers - Alice, David, Sarah and Randy - hope to revisit this magical place again together |
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